Hey,
So I came across this semi-old PA loudspeaker by Peavey(it was an HDH 244T) that didn't work well so I took it apart and decided to turn it into a subwoofer. I took everything out, sanded it down, repainted it, and went out and bought a Gemini XGA-4000, a Peavey 15" Low Rider Subwoofer for it; then I bought a 80 Hz Low Pass 8 Ohm Crossover from Parts-Express. I just put everything together (amp in top of cabinet and sub at the bottom) 8and it doesn't feel like a 700 watt should feel, my friend bought a 500 watt sub from Behringer and that feels more powerful than mine. Did I mess up by assuming I could use any cabinet for a subwoofer? Any help or information is appreciated as I'm very much still learning about audio.
Thanks,
Alex
Sub Cabinets
Re: Sub Cabinets
I found part of your problem. """and went out and bought a Gemini XGA-4000"""
The HDH244T is a mid/high speaker that can be used as a full range but not deep cabinet if need be. Sort of like a SP2.
The down side is its internal volume is not enough to really take advantage of the speaker you bought. Also did you take the horn / lens driver out and plug the hole that it was in? The box is "TUNED" by the round vents in the front of the box. If you took the horn/lens out you changed the internal volume. This changed the box tuning. Not good.
Also the speaker you purchased has a bunch of spec's that makes it work right in a box of a certain size and tuning. Just throwing it in a box and expecting it to work was a bad idea.
I think if I remember right the 3 db down point on those boxes was 55hz. Not really tuned to a sub range to begin with.
Next is the passive crossover. Every passive crossover uses up a small amount of wattage to do what they do. This robs some power that normally goes to the speaker/sub. An "active" crossover would be better.
All in all you rolled the dice and came up short. Google WinISD for a speaker box design calculator.
Doug
The HDH244T is a mid/high speaker that can be used as a full range but not deep cabinet if need be. Sort of like a SP2.
The down side is its internal volume is not enough to really take advantage of the speaker you bought. Also did you take the horn / lens driver out and plug the hole that it was in? The box is "TUNED" by the round vents in the front of the box. If you took the horn/lens out you changed the internal volume. This changed the box tuning. Not good.
Also the speaker you purchased has a bunch of spec's that makes it work right in a box of a certain size and tuning. Just throwing it in a box and expecting it to work was a bad idea.
I think if I remember right the 3 db down point on those boxes was 55hz. Not really tuned to a sub range to begin with.
Next is the passive crossover. Every passive crossover uses up a small amount of wattage to do what they do. This robs some power that normally goes to the speaker/sub. An "active" crossover would be better.
All in all you rolled the dice and came up short. Google WinISD for a speaker box design calculator.
Doug
Re: Sub Cabinets
This.^^^^^^^^^Dookie wrote:I found part of your problem. """and went out and bought a Gemini XGA-4000"""
The HDH244T is a mid/high speaker that can be used as a full range but not deep cabinet if need be. Sort of like a SP2.
The down side is its internal volume is not enough to really take advantage of the speaker you bought. Also did you take the horn / lens driver out and plug the hole that it was in? The box is "TUNED" by the round vents in the front of the box. If you took the horn/lens out you changed the internal volume. This changed the box tuning. Not good.
Also the speaker you purchased has a bunch of spec's that makes it work right in a box of a certain size and tuning. Just throwing it in a box and expecting it to work was a bad idea.
I think if I remember right the 3 db down point on those boxes was 55hz. Not really tuned to a sub range to begin with.
Next is the passive crossover. Every passive crossover uses up a small amount of wattage to do what they do. This robs some power that normally goes to the speaker/sub. An "active" crossover would be better.
All in all you rolled the dice and came up short. Google WinISD for a speaker box design calculator.
Doug
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